Introduction: The Day Before the Shoot – Are You Truly Ready?
You’ve got your shot list nailed, the call sheet’s out, and all your gear is by the door, ready to be loaded. It feels like you’re set, right? But here’s the thing: your most crucial piece of equipment, that powerful little computer in your pocket, probably isn’t ready for prime time. We often obsess over lenses and gimbals, but forget the actual device running the show.
Setting up your smartphone for video filmmaking is usually an afterthought, if it’s thought of at all. It’s like packing for a trip and realizing you brought three left shoes – a small oversight that can ruin your whole day. Modern smartphones from Apple, Samsung, Google, and Huawei are absolute powerhouses, capable of capturing incredible footage. But they need a little love and preparation to perform their best.
This article breaks down six essential steps to set up your smartphone for video filmmaking. Following these steps will help you dodge frustrating issues on set, boost your phone’s performance, and ultimately, get better results.
Related Article: Ideal Camera Settings For Cinematic Smartphone Videos
The Core Foundation: Digital & Performance Optimization
This section is all about getting your phone’s internal house in order. Think of it as digital hygiene. You need your smartphone running smoothly to prevent those annoying glitches and performance hiccups that can derail a perfect take.
Why Should I Switch My Smartphone To Airplane Mode?
Switching your smartphone to Airplane Mode before you start shooting is non-negotiable. This isn’t just for flights; it’s your secret weapon against mid-take disasters. Its primary purpose is to prevent incoming phone calls or text messages from interrupting your recording. Even if your phone is on vibrate, that little buzz can introduce a subtle shake into your footage, ruining an otherwise flawless shot. Nobody wants to look back at a beautiful scene only to see a blurry artifact caused by Aunt Carol’s text about her cat. Plus, showing up on set without this basic step handled just screams “amateur filmmaker,” and trust me, your crew will notice.
Now, if you absolutely need internet access—say, you’re doing a Facebook Live stream while filming—you can enable Airplane Mode first, then manually switch your Wi-Fi connection back on. This keeps you connected without the dread of an unexpected call. If live streaming isn’t on the agenda, simply using “Do Not Disturb” is a decent alternative for blocking calls, but Airplane Mode is still the gold standard for completely isolating your device.
Here’s a kicker: Airplane Mode doesn’t block all notifications. Your Clock, Calendar, and even those pesky Reminders can still pop up and interrupt a recording. To truly prepare your smartphone for filmmaking, go into these applications the night before and clear out any notifications that might trigger during your shoot. You don’t have to delete your entire schedule, just silence the alerts that could make you miss your shot.
How Does Screen Brightness Affect My Video Exposure?
You might think screen brightness is just about your comfort, but it’s crucial for accurate exposure. When you’re setting up your smartphone for filming, make sure its screen is set to maximum brightness. If your display is dimmed, you won’t be able to accurately judge the exposure of your shots. What looks perfectly exposed on a dim screen might actually be severely underexposed or blown out when you review it later on a proper monitor. Any adjustments you make in your video camera app will be based on a false visual, leading to footage that’s either too dark or too bright. So, before every single shoot day, crank that brightness all the way up to ensure you’re seeing the true image.
Why is a Full Battery and Smart Charging So Important?
This might sound obvious, but having a fully charged battery before your first shot is more critical than you think. My favorite smartphone filmmaking app, Filmic Pro, for example, will actually interrupt and stop recording when the battery hits 20%, and then again at 10%. Nothing screams “rookie mistake” faster than your camera dying mid-take, causing unnecessary delays and frustration for everyone on set. It’s a moment that makes you want to crawl into a hole and never emerge, especially when you’re supposed to be the leader.
To avoid this headache, always start with 100% battery life. Also, here’s a critical warning: avoid charging your phone while you’re actively filming. Doing so can cause the battery to overheat, which can lead to corrupted or lost video clips. It’s a risk not worth taking. Instead, only charge your phone when you’re not using it. And for those long shoot days, always pack a few fully charged portable battery chargers. You never know when the nearest power outlet will be a mirage in the desert.
How Can I Optimize My Smartphone’s Processor Speed?
Your smartphone’s processor is its brain, and you don’t want it bogged down by a bunch of unnecessary tasks when you’re trying to capture epic footage. A huge CPU drain from background apps can seriously hamper your phone’s performance. Before each day of shooting, close down all apps running in the background except for the video camera app you’re actually using.
While every smartphone has its own method for shutting down background apps (a quick Google search for your specific model will tell you how), making this a pre-shoot ritual is vital. Having only one app open allows your video camera app to run at its absolute best, ensuring smoother recording and preventing crashes. As a general rule, make sure you only have one video camera app active at a time; multiple camera apps open simultaneously can cause conflicts. Plus, keeping everything else turned off helps your battery last longer throughout the day, which is always a win.
Why is Clearing Smartphone Drive Space So Crucial?
Before you even think about hitting record, ensure your smartphone has plenty of free space on its hard drive. This is absolutely critical for smartphone filmmaking. With today’s phones shooting at a minimum of 4K resolution, you can find yourself in a tight spot very quickly if you start filming only to discover you have a measly 100MB left. Three to four minutes of 1080p HD video can eat up several megabytes, and 4K footage devours space even faster. This storage can pile up over a day of shooting, and running out of space mid-scene is a nightmare you don’t want to live.
You need to regularly clean out and delete any unneeded data from your smartphone to ensure you have enough storage space for filming. This means backing up your personal files—like family photos or videos—to an external hard drive or computer the day before your shoot, and then deleting them from your phone.
Crucial Tip: If you’re an Apple user, don’t just “delete” files and assume they’re gone. Photos and videos often sit in a “Recently Deleted” or “Trash” folder for 30 days. You need to empty this folder to permanently free up that space. Otherwise, you’re just moving files to a hidden purgatory, not truly clearing your drive.
Beyond photos and videos, scrutinize other files. Unwanted documents, old videos, emails, and your web browser’s cache can quickly fill up your smartphone’s hard drive. For Apple users, the iTunes app can also be a sneaky culprit, hoarding downloaded MP3s and videos that consume significant space. Get rid of them to make room for your precious video files.
While I get it, setting up your smartphone for filming isn’t exactly a thrilling part of the creative process—it’s more like doing your taxes than writing a screenplay. But having a working, optimized filmmaking smartphone on set is non-negotiable. Also, take a moment to go through your phone and uninstall any undesirable apps you aren’t using. I’ve found apps on my iPhone that I haven’t touched in years hogging gigabytes of space that could be used for 4K video. Install only the apps you require for your filmmaking workflow and ditch the rest. I’m not saying purge every game or social media app, but if you have five different versions of Candy Crush, perhaps consider if they’re truly necessary for your cinematic ambitions. When installing new apps, always keep an eye on their installation file size.
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Mastering Your Camera App: Unlocking Manual Control
Native camera apps, while convenient, often lack the granular control you need for truly cinematic results. Think of them as automatic transmissions; they get you where you’re going, but a manual transmission gives you far more control. This section dives into how third-party camera apps can transform your smartphone into a powerful, professional-level video camera.
Why Do I Need a Professional Camera App?
Your phone’s built-in camera app is fine for quick snaps and casual videos, but for serious filmmaking, it’s like trying to bake a gourmet cake with only a microwave. These apps typically operate on auto-settings, which means the phone decides your ISO, shutter speed, and white balance for you. That’s great for simplicity, but terrible for consistency and creative control. Professional camera apps unlock your smartphone’s full potential, giving you manual control over crucial settings and access to advanced features like focus peaking, zebras for exposure, and various logging formats.
Apps like Filmic Pro, Blackmagic Camera, and Moment Pro Camera are industry favorites for a reason. They turn your phone into a true filmmaking tool, allowing you to dictate exactly how your image is captured. (We’ll talk about editing apps like Kinemaster and Filmora later, but for shooting, these are your go-to.)
What Essential Manual Settings Should I Dial-In?
Once you’ve got a pro camera app installed, it’s time to ditch the auto settings and take the wheel. Mastering these manual controls is fundamental to achieving a polished, cinematic look:
ISO: This controls your camera’s light sensitivity. Use a low ISO (e.g., 100 or 200) in bright conditions to avoid noise and maintain image clarity. In darker environments, you’ll need a higher ISO, but be aware that pushing it too high can introduce digital grain or “noise” into your footage, making it look less professional. It’s a delicate balance.
Shutter Speed: This is crucial for controlling motion blur and achieving that coveted cinematic look. A general rule for video is to set your shutter speed to double your frame rate. So, if you’re shooting at 24 frames per second (fps) for a filmic feel, your shutter speed should be or . This creates natural-looking motion blur, making movement appear smooth rather than choppy.
Aperture: While smartphone apertures are largely fixed (meaning you can’t physically open or close the lens like on a DSLR), pro apps often give you some software-based control or at least display the current aperture. Understanding it helps you grasp depth of field (how much of your image is in focus).
White Balance: This ensures consistent and accurate color temperature. Auto white balance can shift colors mid-shot, making your footage look inconsistent and difficult to color grade later. Manually setting your white balance(e.g., to Daylight, Cloudy, or a specific Kelvin temperature) ensures your whites are truly white and your colors are accurate throughout your scene.
Focus Lock: Nothing is more distracting than a video that constantly hunts for focus. With a pro app, you can lock your focus on your subject. This prevents the camera from automatically refocusing if something moves into the foreground or background, ensuring your subject stays sharp and clear.
How Do I Choose the Right Resolution and Frame Rate?
The resolution and frame rate you choose will significantly impact your final video’s quality and file size. It’s a trade-off you need to understand:
Resolution:
- 4K (3840×2160): This delivers incredibly sharp, detailed footage. It’s great for future-proofing your content and allows for reframing or cropping in post-production without significant quality loss. However, 4K files are massive and demand more storage (as we discussed) and processing power for editing.
- 1080p (1920×1080): Still considered High Definition, 1080p produces smaller files that are easier to manage and edit. For many online platforms and casual viewing, 1080p is perfectly sufficient.
Frame Rate:
- 24fps: This is the standard frame rate for cinema and gives your video a classic, “filmic” look.
- 30fps: Common for television and online content, providing a slightly smoother, more “video” like feel.
- 60fps, 120fps, or higher: These higher frame rates are essential if you plan to incorporate slow-motion into your video. Shooting at a higher frame rate allows you to slow down the footage in editing while maintaining smoothness, creating dramatic or artistic effects.
Why Should I Always Use the Rear Camera and Avoid Digital Zoom?
This is a simple rule, but it makes a huge difference: always use your smartphone’s rear camera. The rear camera system almost universally boasts superior sensors, better lenses, and more advanced image processing capabilities compared to the front-facing “selfie” camera. If you want the best possible image quality, flip that phone around.
Secondly, avoid using digital zoom at all costs. When you “pinch to zoom” on your phone’s screen, you’re not actually using optical zoom (like on a traditional camera lens that physically moves). Instead, your phone is digitally cropping and enlarging the image, essentially throwing away pixels and creating a pixelated, blurry mess. It’s like taking a small photo and blowing it up – it just gets fuzzier. If you need to get closer to your subject, physically move closer or invest in a dedicated mobile telephoto lens. Your footage will thank you.
Stability First: Essential Gimbals & Tripods
Shaky footage is the quickest way to make your video look amateur. Honestly, nothing screams “first-timer” louder than a shot that looks like it was filmed during an earthquake. Stability is paramount for professional-looking video, and thankfully, you don’t need a Hollywood crew to achieve it.
Why Should I Invest in a Gimbal for Smooth Motion?
If you plan on moving your camera at all – even just a slight pan or tilt – a gimbal is your best friend. This electronic stabilizer uses motors to keep your smartphone perfectly level and smooth, no matter how much your hand shakes or how uneven the terrain. It transforms jerky, handheld footage into buttery-smooth, cinematic movements. It’s the difference between a home video and a scene from a movie.
Popular options include the DJI Osmo Mobile series and the Hohem iSteady series. These aren’t just fancy sticks; they offer features like object tracking, cinematic pan/tilt modes, and significantly reduce camera shake, making your footage look incredibly polished.
How Can Tripods Help with Stability and Rigging?
For any shot where your camera needs to stay perfectly still, or if you’re doing an interview, a tripod is essential. It’s the stable foundation for static shots, timelapses, or even just for setting up your frame precisely without holding the phone. Think of it as your steady, silent assistant who never complains about holding the camera for hours.
There are a few types to consider:
Mini-tripods like the Manfrotto PIXI are great for tabletop shots or low angles.
Flexible tripods such as the Joby GorillaPod can wrap around objects, giving you creative mounting options.
For more traditional setups, a full-size tripod with a smartphone adapter will give you height and rock-solid stability.
The main benefits are obvious: hands-free operation and precise framing. You can set your shot, walk away, and know it won’t budge.
What Are Phone Cages and Rigs, and Do I Need One?
Once you start adding accessories like external microphones and lights (which we’ll get to in the next sections), simply attaching them to a tripod can get clunky. That’s where phone cages and rigs come in. These are frames that securely hold your smartphone and provide multiple mounting points – often cold shoe mounts or -inch screw threads – for all your extra gear.
Their purpose is simple: they give you a more robust and comfortable grip on your phone, and a centralized hub for all your accessories. It’s like building a mini Hollywood rig around your smartphone. You might not need one for your very first shoot, but as you expand your kit, a good cage makes your setup far more organized and ergonomic.
Hear This: Elevating Your Audio with External Microphones
Good audio is often more important than good video. Seriously, people will tolerate slightly less-than-perfect visuals if the sound is crystal clear. But if your audio is muddy, distorted, or full of background noise, viewers will bail faster than I do on a film idea that requires me to learn quantum physics. Your phone’s built-in microphone simply isn’t designed for professional audio capture.
Why External Mics Are Non-Negotiable for Quality Audio?
Your smartphone’s internal microphone is tiny, omnidirectional (meaning it picks up sound from all around, including that annoying hum from the fridge), and designed for phone calls, not filmmaking. It’s usually far from your subject, leading to echo, muffled voices, and a ton of unwanted background noise. Trying to fix bad audio in post-production is a nightmare, often impossible without making it sound even worse. That’s why external microphones are non-negotiable if you’re serious about your smartphone videos. They capture cleaner, clearer, and more focused sound.
What Types of External Microphones Work Best for Smartphones?
The right microphone depends on what you’re trying to record:
Lavalier (Lapel) Mics: These tiny mics clip discreetly onto your subject’s clothing, placing the microphone close to their mouth. They’re ideal for interviews, vlogs, or any scenario where clear dialogue is paramount. They isolate the voice and minimize ambient noise.
Shotgun Mics: These are directional microphones designed to pick up sound from a specific area directly in front of them, while rejecting sounds from the sides and rear. They’re great for capturing dialogue from a slight distance or for focusing on specific sound effects in a scene. Think of them as audio spotlights.
USB/Lightning Mics: Many modern smartphones (especially iPhones with Lightning ports or Androids with USB-C) can connect directly to high-quality digital microphones via these ports. These often offer superior sound quality and bypass the phone’s internal audio processing.
How Do I Connect and Monitor My Microphone?
Connecting your microphone usually involves a simple plug-and-play, but sometimes you’ll need an adapter. Many smartphone microphones use a TRRS (Tip-Ring-Ring-Sleeve) connector, which is designed for phone headphone/mic jacks. Older professional mics might use a TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) connector, requiring a TRRS-to-TRS adapter. For Lightning or USB-C ports, you’ll either need a mic designed for that port or an appropriate adapter (like Apple’s Lightning to 3.5mm Headphone Jack Adapter).
Once connected, if your professional camera app allows it, monitor your audio with headphones. This is crucial. You can hear if there’s any static, clipping (distortion from audio being too loud), or unwanted background noise before you record. There’s nothing worse than getting home, importing your footage, and realizing your audio is unusable because you didn’t check it on set. Trust me, I’ve been there, staring at perfectly framed footage with sound that belongs in a horror film.
See the Light: Lenses & Lighting for Cinematic Shots
Light is the painter’s brush for filmmakers. It shapes the mood, highlights your subject, and can make or break the visual impact of your video. Your smartphone’s camera is powerful, but external lenses and a basic understanding of lighting can truly elevate your footage from good to cinematic.
How Can External Lenses Expand My Phone’s Perspective?
While your phone’s built-in lenses are impressive, they offer a limited range. External mobile lenses clip onto your smartphone, giving you creative options that are impossible with the native camera. Think of them as specialized tools for specific visual effects:
Anamorphic Lenses: These are the holy grail for a true cinematic look. They squeeze a wider field of view onto your sensor, which you then “unsqueeze” in editing, resulting in a super-wide aspect ratio (like a movie screen) and distinctive oval-shaped lens flares. It’s a very specific, beautiful aesthetic.
Wide-Angle Lenses: If you want to capture more of a scene – say, a vast landscape or a cramped interior – a wide-angle lens is your friend. They’re great for establishing shots or when you need to fit a lot into the frame without moving further back.
Telephoto Lenses: Instead of relying on your phone’s quality-destroying digital zoom, a telephoto lens provides optical zoom. This means you can get closer to your subject without losing any image quality, perfect for capturing details from a distance or creating a compressed background effect.
Macro Lenses: For extreme close-ups of small objects, textures, or intricate details, a macro lens is indispensable. It allows your phone to focus incredibly close, revealing a whole new world of visual possibilities.
How Can Filters Help Me Control Light and Enhance My Video?
Filters aren’t just for Instagram. In filmmaking, they’re essential tools for controlling light and enhancing your image in-camera, saving you headaches in post-production.
Variable Neutral Density (VND) Filters: These are like sunglasses for your camera. A VND filter reduces the amount of light hitting your sensor, allowing you to use a slower shutter speed (like that or for cinematic motion blur) even in bright conditions. Without a VND, your footage would be completely overexposed. They’re crucial for maintaining proper exposure while achieving a filmic look outdoors.
Circular Polarizer (CPL) Filters: A CPL filter reduces glare and reflections from non-metallic surfaces like water, glass, or even shiny leaves. It also enhances color saturation and contrast, making skies bluer and foliage greener. It’s a subtle but powerful way to make your colors pop and reduce distracting reflections.
How Can I Master Natural Lighting Techniques?
Natural light is free, abundant, and often the most beautiful light source you have. Understanding how to use it effectively is a game-changer:
Golden Hour: This is the hour after sunrise and the hour before sunset. The sun is low in the sky, casting a soft, warm, and flattering light that’s perfect for portraits and landscapes. It’s called “golden” for a reason – everything just looks better.
Blue Hour: The period just before sunrise or just after sunset, when the sky is a deep, rich blue. This light is cool and ambient, creating a moody or dramatic atmosphere. It’s fantastic for cityscapes or scenes that need a touch of mystery.
Overcast Days: Don’t let a cloudy sky get you down. Overcast conditions create a giant, natural softbox, diffusing the sun’s light evenly. This results in soft, shadowless illumination that’s incredibly flattering and easy to work with, especially for interviews or close-ups.
What to Avoid: Steer clear of shooting in harsh midday sun. This creates strong, unflattering shadows and can lead to overexposed highlights. Also, be wary of backlighting without compensation. If your subject is in front of a bright window or the sun, they’ll often appear as a silhouette unless you add light to their front.
What Are Some Simple Artificial Lighting Setups?
While natural light is great, sometimes you need more control, or you’re shooting indoors or at night. You don’t need a massive studio lighting kit; simple artificial setups can make a world of difference:
Basic LED Panels: Portable and affordable, small LED panels are fantastic for adding fill light to soften shadows, creating a key light to illuminate your subject, or even adding a subtle backlight for separation. Many are battery-powered and fit in your pocket, making them incredibly versatile.
Three-Point Lighting: This is the foundational lighting setup in filmmaking. It involves three lights:
Key Light: The main light source, illuminating your subject’s face.
Fill Light: A softer light placed opposite the key light to reduce harsh shadows.
Back Light: Placed behind the subject, it creates a rim of light that separates them from the background, adding depth. Even with just one or two small LED panels, you can start experimenting with these principles to dramatically improve your interview setups or product shots.
Plan Your Masterpiece: Pre-Shoot Storytelling & Composition
Even with the best gear and perfectly optimized phone settings, a lack of planning leads to disjointed, confusing footage. It’s like having all the ingredients for a gourmet meal but no recipe – you’ll end up with a mess. This section is about the crucial pre-shoot mental work that transforms random clips into a cohesive story.
Why Should I Develop a Storyboard and Shot List?
Your brain might be a whirlwind of brilliant film ideas, but trying to keep them all in your head on a busy set is a recipe for disaster. Developing a storyboard (like the one above) and a shot list is how you translate those ideas into actionable steps.
Storyboard: This is a visual outline of your film, like a comic book version of your video. It consists of simple sketches or images for each shot, along with notes on dialogue, camera movement, and key actions. Its purpose is to visualize your narrative before you even pick up the camera, ensuring your story flows logically.
Shot List: This is a detailed checklist of every shot you need to capture. It includes information like the shot number, description, camera angle, framing, and any specific notes. A shot list ensures you get all necessary footage, prevents missed shots, and makes your shoot day far more efficient. It’s your roadmap for filming, ensuring you don’t forget that crucial close-up of the mysterious locket.
How Can I Apply Basic Composition Rules to My Shots?
Good composition transforms a simple recording into a visually engaging piece of art. These aren’t rigid rules, but guidelines to make your shots more appealing:
Rule of Thirds: Imagine your screen divided into a 3×3 grid (like a tic-tac-toe board). Instead of centering your subject, place them along the lines or at the intersection points. This creates a more dynamic and balanced image. It’s a simple trick that instantly makes your footage look more professional.
Leading Lines: Use natural or artificial lines within your frame (roads, fences, rivers, architectural elements) to draw the viewer’s eye towards your subject or a point of interest. They create depth and direct attention.
Adding Depth: A flat image is boring. Create a sense of depth by including elements in the foreground, midground, and background. This makes your scene feel more immersive and three-dimensional, even when shooting on a small phone sensor.
How Do I Choose the Right Framing (Landscape vs. Vertical)?
The aspect ratio of your video is critical, especially with the rise of social media. You need to decide on your final output platform before you start shooting:
Landscape (16:9): This is the standard widescreen format for cinematic video, YouTube, and traditional televisions. If your video is destined for a larger screen or a more “filmic” presentation, always shoot in landscape. Holding your phone horizontally is the way to go here.
Vertical (9:16): This tall, narrow format is essential for platforms like TikTok, Instagram Reels, and YouTube Shorts. These platforms are designed for mobile-first consumption, and vertical video fills the screen, providing an immersive experience for viewers scrolling on their phones. If your content is specifically for these platforms, shoot vertically. Don’t try to crop a landscape video into vertical later; it rarely looks good.
Why Should I Capture Cutaways and B-Roll?
You’ve got your main shots, but what about the glue that holds them together? Cutaways and B-Roll are your editing superpowers.
Purpose: These extra shots add visual interest, help smooth transitions between different takes or scenes, and can cover up awkward jumps or mistakes in your primary footage. They give your editor (even if that’s you, falling asleep at 3 AM) options.
Examples:
Detail shots: A close-up of a character’s hands, a unique prop, or an interesting texture.
Establishing shots: A wide shot of the location to set the scene.
Reaction shots: A non-speaking character’s reaction to dialogue or an event.
Action inserts: A close-up of a character performing an action (e.g., pouring coffee, typing on a keyboard).
Capturing these extra bits of footage gives your video a more professional, dynamic feel and makes the editing process significantly easier.
Conclusion: Ready to Roll!
By meticulously following these essential setup steps, you’re not just preparing your smartphone; you’re transforming it from a casual device into a powerful, reliable filmmaking tool. Meticulous preparation, from digital hygiene and app configuration to choosing the right accessories and planning your shots, directly leads to smoother shoots, fewer headaches, and ultimately, higher-quality results. So, go forth, optimize that phone, and capture your masterpiece!
We’d love to hear your own smartphone filmmaking tips or challenges in the comments below. Share your experiences!
Trent’s film Noelle’s Package and Married & Isolated was shot on an iPhone(see below).
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About the Author:
Trent Peek is a filmmaker specializing in directing, producing, and acting. He works with high-end cinema cameras from RED and ARRI and also values the versatility of cameras like the Blackmagic Pocket Cinema.
His recent short film “Going Home” was selected for the 2024 Soho International Film Festival, highlighting his skill in crafting compelling narratives. Learn more about his work on [IMDB], [YouTube], [Vimeo], and [Stage 32].
In his downtime, he likes to travel (sometimes he even manages to pack the right shoes), curl up with a book (and usually fall asleep after two pages), and brainstorm film ideas (most of which will never see the light of day). It’s a good way to keep himself occupied, even if he’s a bit of a mess at it all.
P.S. It’s really weird to talk in the third person
Tune In: He recently appeared on the Pushin Podcast, sharing insights into the director’s role in independent productions.
For more behind-the-scenes content and project updates, visit his YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/@trentalor.
For business inquiries, please get in touch with him at trentalor@peekatthis.com. You can also find Trent on Instagram @trentalor and Facebook @peekatthis.