Best Mirrorless Cameras for Beginner Filmmakers (2026)
Twenty minutes into an interview with my grandmother about how she met my grandfather, my camera stopped. The file corrupted.
It was a Sony Alpha 7 II, bought in early 2015 for around $1,800 body-only. On paper it was a massive upgrade — the first full-frame mirrorless body with 5-axis sensor stabilization.
I didn’t know it had a hard 29:59 recording cap. The camera stopped the clip to stay under the EU tax limit. Because I was rolling one continuous long take and didn’t stop and restart manually, the clip stream didn’t finalize, and the file corrupted. That story is gone. I can’t reshoot a grandmother.
Years later I was dressing sets on Netflix’s Maid: ten episodes, union crews, 14-hour days. Cameras rolled for hours without stopping. The difference wasn’t the budget. It was knowing what actually breaks under pressure.
Affiliate Disclosure: This site earns a commission when you buy through links to Amazon, B&H, or Adorama. I only recommend gear I have used or would buy myself, and where I haven’t used something, I say so.
The best first mirrorless camera for a beginner filmmaker in 2026 is the Canon EOS R10 (about $980 body). It has no 29:59 cap, dependable Dual Pixel autofocus, and simple menus, though heat can shorten long takes. For video-first work, the Sony ZV-E10 II (about $900) adds cropped 4K/120p through a free upgrade license.
What Camera Should a Beginner Filmmaker Actually Buy?
Buy the Canon EOS R10 if you want the safest first camera. Buy the Sony ZV-E10 II if video is your main output and you want the better value. Skip full-frame and anything that records RAW until you have shot ten short projects.
Best first camera: Canon EOS R10 (about $980 body)
Best value for video-first work: Sony ZV-E10 II (about $900 body)
Best for narrative if you can spend more: Panasonic GH7 (about $2,200 at launch), or a GH6 if you find one at a real discount
Best hybrid for stills and video: Fujifilm X-S20 (check stock first)
Best full-frame step-up: Nikon Z6 III (about $2,500 body)
Every price in this article is a ballpark. Check the current price before you buy.
One disclosure up front: I shoot Sony. Recommending the R10 first is not me defending my own system, and the section on ecosystems explains why.
Why Are Most Camera Guides Written by the Wrong People?
Because most are written by photographers reviewing stills cameras, and video fails in different places. A beginner filmmaker needs to know whether the camera keeps recording, stays cool, takes a microphone, and makes files their laptop can edit.
| What photographers review | What filmmakers need |
|---|---|
| Megapixels | Recording time per clip |
| Burst rate | Overheating during long takes |
| Eye-tracking for birds | Reliable face and subject autofocus |
| Stills battery rating | Battery life while recording video |
| RAW photo quality | A mic input, a headphone jack, and files you can actually edit |
Production Reality: I was dressing sets on Maid, not operating a camera, and even from the set-dressing side the pattern was plain. A 14-hour day leaves no room for gear that needs babysitting. A camera that stops at minute 29, or needs a cool-down break, is a scheduling problem, not a spec-sheet footnote.
Are These Cameras Still Worth Buying in 2026?
Mostly yes, with two caveats. The GH6 was replaced by the GH7 in 2024, and the X-S20 was reportedly discontinued in Japan in 2025, so check stock before you plan around either. The R10 is a 2022 design, and a successor is rumored but not announced as of this update in October 2026.
| Camera | Released | 2026 status | What's newer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Canon EOS R10 | 2022 | Still sold. R10 Mark II is rumored, nothing announced as of this update | Canon EOS R50 V (April 2025, $649 body at launch) |
| Sony ZV-E10 II | July 2024 | Current. 4K/120p added by free license in December 2025 | No successor announced that I could confirm |
| Panasonic GH6 | March 2022 | Replaced by the GH7 in 2024. Remaining stock is old inventory, refurbished, or used | GH7: phase-detect autofocus, internal ProRes RAW HQ, about $2,200 at launch |
| Fujifilm X-S20 | 2023 | Reportedly discontinued in Japan in April 2025. I could not confirm a successor | Fujifilm X-T30 III (2025): 26.1MP, no in-body stabilization |
| Nikon Z6 III | 2024 | Current | n/a |
Buying last year's model is not a mistake. Paying this year's price for it can be.
How Do You Choose Your First Camera?
Start with what you shoot, then your total budget, then what your computer can edit. In that order. The camera that wins the spec sheet is rarely the one that fits all three.
What Will You Shoot Most?
| If you mostly shoot | Start with | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Narrative shorts | GH7 (or a GH6 at a real discount) | Fan-cooled body, internal ProRes, manual focus tools |
| Documentary and run-and-gun | R10 or ZV-E10 II | Reliable autofocus, compact bodies |
| Weddings and events | R10, or Z6 III if low light is the problem | Dependable autofocus; full-frame helps in dark rooms |
| Hybrid photo and video | X-S20 (if you can find one) | In-body stabilization, stills and video in one body |
| Vertical and social video | ZV-E10 II | Vertical interface, high-frame-rate option |
What Audiences Actually Feel: Noelle's Package was shot on a smartphone in a 48-hour competition and won the Audience Choice Award. The audience voted on the story. Nobody voted on the sensor.
What's Your Total Budget?
| Total budget | Example setup (body and lenses) |
|---|---|
| About $1,500 | ZV-E10 II ($900) + Sigma 18-50 ($549) = $1,449 |
| About $1,750 | R10 ($980) + RF 50mm f/1.8 ($199) + Sigma 18-50 RF ($549) = $1,728 |
| About $2,500+ | GH7 alone is about $2,200 at launch, so budget for lenses and a CFexpress card on top |
| About $2,800+ | Z6 III ($2,497) + Z 40mm f/2 ($277) = $2,774 |
These totals are body and lenses only. Audio, cards, batteries and a tripod come on top, which the gear section breaks down.
What Can Your Computer Edit?
If your laptop can't edit the files, you didn't save money. You bought a problem. H.264 and H.265 files are the easiest to cut, ProRes is heavier, and RAW is heavier still.
Before you buy anything that records ProRes or RAW, download a sample clip from the manufacturer or a reviewer and drag it into your editing software. Scrub it. If it stutters, price in a new computer.
I edit on Apple Silicon (MacBook Pro) now. The M-series chips chew through 10-bit H.265 and ProRes files that would have choked my old Intel machine.
Which Mirrorless Camera Is Right for You?
The R10 for most beginners, the ZV-E10 II if video is the point, the GH7 or a discounted GH6 if you shoot narrative and can spend more, the X-S20 if you also shoot stills, and the Z6 III only if low light is costing you shots. Each pick below says who should skip it.
1. Canon EOS R10: Best First Camera (about $980 body)
This is the camera I would hand to someone who has never shot before.
I used it on a commercial shoot in Vancouver: 4K/30p all day, corporate interviews, B-roll in harsh midday sun, handheld tracking shots. My assistant, who had never touched a camera, got sharp footage because Dual Pixel autofocus does the hard part. I also ran it as a B-camera beside a Canon R6 Mark II on an indie feature, and in post the footage matched.
What it does well:
24.2MP APS-C sensor with 4K/30p oversampled from 6K, no crop
Dual Pixel autofocus that locks onto faces quickly
Flip-out screen and Canon color that needs little work on skin tones
RF mount, with a large selection of lenses
The recording-limit reality: The R10 has no 29:59 cap, but “no limit” overstates it. Canon lists roughly two hours of continuous recording in normal conditions and says a hot body can shorten that. Canon’s user community also points to a menu setting for HDMI output, which can stop at about 30 minutes if you don’t change it.
Honest drawbacks:
No in-body stabilization, so you need stabilized lenses or a gimbal for handheld work
Small LP-E17 battery; buy extras
4K/60p is cropped (Canon lists about 64% of the horizontal sensor width)
Who should NOT buy this: Anyone who needs stabilization built into the body, anyone who needs uncropped 4K/60p, and anyone planning to grow into Sony full-frame later.
Compatibility: Test a sample clip on your laptop before you buy. Heavier 10-bit files, where a camera offers them, are harder to edit than they look.
Budget alternative: The Canon EOS R50 V ($649 body at launch) is a video-first sibling with 10-bit 4:2:2 recording, Canon Log 3, and dedicated mic and headphone jacks. It has no viewfinder, and its 4K/60p is cropped. Check the current price before buying.
Budget lens pairing: Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 ($199), RF-S 18-45mm kit lens ($299 separately), Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 for RF ($549). Prices are ballparks.
2. Sony ZV-E10 II: Best Value for Video-First Work (about $900 body)
If video is your main output, this is the better value than the R10. It has 3.5mm mic and headphone ports, a battery CIPA-rated for roughly 610 shots or about 130 minutes of continuous video, and Sony’s E-mount, which also leads to Sony full-frame later.
I used one on a cramped-apartment documentary interview where I couldn’t back up far enough. The crop sensor helped: my 24mm lens felt like a 35mm. Total shoot time was 2.5 hours and the camera never complained.
I also used a ZV-E10 II on Dead Air as a lightweight B-camera for tight interior car shots. The digital Active Stabilization smoothed out the handheld movement, but the lack of an EVF made monitoring exposure in direct sunlight tricky through the rear screen.
The 4K/120p upgrade: This is not a firmware update. Sony released a free upgrade license in December 2025 that you download from Sony’s Creators’ Cloud site, one file per camera. In 4K/120p the frame is cropped (about 1.6x), Active stabilization is turned off, and it records Long GOP only. The same license unlocks up to 10x slow motion — Full HD at 240fps in XAVC S.
Honest drawbacks:
Noise climbs above ISO 3200
Menus take time to learn
No built-in ND filter
No in-body stabilization (the stabilization is digital)
No EVF, which is a real problem outdoors in bright light
Who should NOT buy this: Anyone who wants a viewfinder, since this body has none, and anyone who mostly shoots stills.
Compatibility: 4K/60p H.265 is demanding. Test a sample clip on your machine first.
Budget alternative: A used original ZV-E10 shoots 4K/30p with no 4K/60p. [Needs verification: current used price and condition notes]
Budget lens pairing: Sony E 35mm f/1.8 OSS ($448), Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 ($549), Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 ($349). Prices are ballparks.
3. Panasonic Lumix GH6: The Video-First Camera, and Why You Should Price the GH7 First
The GH6 is a strong video body, but Panasonic replaced it with the GH7 in mid-2024. If you can afford about $2,200, buy the GH7. If you find a GH6 new, refurbished or used at a real discount, it is still worth considering.
I have not used a GH6. My hands-on experience is the GH5 II: a music video shot in pouring rain where the camera got drenched and kept rolling, and a trip through Japan with three primes in a small backpack. What follows about the GH6 and GH7 is research, not personal use.
What the GH6 does:
Built-in cooling fan, with unlimited recording at the recommended operating temperature
Internal 5.7K/30p ProRes 422 HQ and ProRes 422 on a CFexpress Type B card
ProRes RAW only over HDMI to an Atomos Ninja V or V+, not internally
One CFexpress Type B slot and one SD slot (not dual SD)
Contrast-detect autofocus, with no phase-detect
What the GH7 changes: It adds phase-detect autofocus, internal ProRes RAW HQ at 5.7K/30p, and 32-bit float audio through an optional XLR adapter. It keeps the fan. ProRes RAW can’t go to the SD slot.
A GH6 sold as “clearance” in 2026 is old stock. Confirm whether you’re buying new, refurbished or used.
Honest drawbacks: Micro Four Thirds noise climbs above ISO 3200, the GH6’s autofocus is weaker for tracking than Canon or Sony, and ProRes files are large and need expensive CFexpress cards.
Who should NOT buy this: Anyone whose laptop can’t edit ProRes, anyone who needs dependable subject-tracking autofocus, and anyone with a total budget under about $2,000.
Budget alternative: A used GH5 II is the camera I actually shot with. [Needs verification: current used price]
Budget lens pairing: Panasonic 25mm f/1.7 ($148), Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 PRO ($599). Prices are ballparks.
4. Fujifilm X-S20: Best Hybrid for Stills and Video (check stock first)
The X-S20 is the pick when you shoot stills and video in the same session. Fujifilm reportedly discontinued it in Japan in April 2025, so confirm you can actually buy one new.
I used one on a commercial that needed product stills for print and behind-the-scenes video for social, same camera, same session. I also shot a noir short entirely in the Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation. The look came out of the camera, which saved grading time.
What it does well:
6.2K/30p and 4K/60p video, 10-bit internal
7 stops of in-body stabilization
Film simulations that apply to video
An optional Fujifilm fan accessory extends record times
Honest drawbacks: Autofocus tracking lags behind Sony and Canon in my experience, so manual focus becomes your friend. The camera runs hot in long 6K recordings. The 750-shot battery figure is a stills rating — Fujifilm rates movie capture at roughly 85 minutes for 6.2K/30p, or about 110 minutes continuous at 1080p.
Who should NOT buy this: Anyone who needs rock-solid subject tracking, and anyone who can’t find new stock.
Compatibility: 6K files are heavy. Test a sample clip.
Different tool, not a cheaper one: The X-T30 III (2025) has a 26.1MP sensor and no in-body stabilization. It trades stabilization for resolution.
Budget lens pairing: Fujifilm XC 35mm f/2 ($199), Viltrox 23mm f/1.4 ($349). Prices are ballparks.
5. Nikon Z6 III: Best Full-Frame Step-Up (about $2,497 body)
Buy this only if low light is costing you shots and you have the budget and the computer for RAW. For a first camera, it is more camera than most beginners can use.
I shot a low-budget feature on a Z6 II in a dimly lit apartment, and ISO 6400 looked clean. I then rented a Z6 III for a wedding film and shot 4K/60p all day. The Z6 III adds internal RAW recording up to 6K/60p. The Nikon Z 24-70mm f/4 kit lens is slow but sharp enough for professional work. In my experience Nikon’s skin tones need very little help in post.
Resolution doesn’t fix composition. A full-frame sensor mostly gives you more room to see your framing mistakes more clearly.
Honest drawbacks: Price, an average battery for a full-frame body, and a learning curve for RAW workflows.
Who should NOT buy this: First-time buyers with under $2,500 total, anyone whose laptop can’t handle RAW, and anyone hoping full-frame will fix framing or lighting.
Compatibility: RAW files are large. Test a sample clip on your machine before you buy.
Budget alternative: None I can verify. The honest alternative is an R10 or ZV-E10 II now, and full-frame after you hit a real limit.
Lens pairing: Nikon Z 40mm f/2 ($277). The Z 24-70mm f/4 is a step-up lens, not a budget one. Prices are ballparks.
What Actually Matters on Set (That Spec Sheets Hide)?
Recording limits, heat, audio inputs, file size, and focus. Test all five before you commit, because none of them appear in a headline spec.
Recording Limits
Canon bodies used to stop at 29 minutes 59 seconds, a cap tied to EU tax rules. My a7 II had the same cap, and losing a 20-minute interview with my grandmother to it is the reason I check this first on any camera now.
A wedding ceremony or a panel discussion doesn’t end at minute 29. Check every camera’s real continuous recording time, not the marketing line. Then run the record-limit test: record one continuous 30-minute take in a warm room, at the settings you will actually shoot, before your return window closes. If it stops, overheats, or corrupts the file, send it back.
Overheating
Heat varies by camera, frame rate and room temperature. The GH6 and GH7 have fans built in, and the X-S20 takes an optional fan accessory.
I found this out the hard way. In 2017, on indoor interview shoots, recording 4K internally on warm summer days would trip the heat warning icon and force a shutdown after roughly 18 to 20 minutes of continuous rolling. That’s the a7R II — a body that reviewed as professional-grade and still couldn’t hold a take.
Search a camera’s name plus “overheating” plus your frame rate and read what people shot, not what the box says.
Audio Inputs
A 3.5mm mic jack is the minimum. A headphone jack matters more than most beginners expect. Some bodies add XLR through an adapter. The a7 II had a 3.5mm mic jack — so the “no mic input” complaint isn’t about that camera, it’s about whatever cheaper body you’re tempted to buy first. Check the port list before you commit.
Half the film is audio. On Married & Isolated, exterior dialogue was ruined by wind buffeting because we relied on an unshielded camera mic. Switching to a dedicated shotgun with a deadcat solved it, but the early takes were unusable. A $100 shotgun mic beats the camera’s built-in mic every time.
On Someone Knows, the mic doing the work was a $35 RØDE VideoMicro on a boom pole. Cheap audio works if you get close and keep the mic out of frame.
Codec Efficiency
H.264 and H.265 files are smaller and easier to edit. ProRes and RAW eat storage and need powerful machines.
Storage rule of thumb: gigabytes per hour is roughly the camera’s bitrate in megabits per second multiplied by 0.45. A 100 Mbps clip is about 45GB an hour. Look up your camera’s bitrate before you buy cards.
Autofocus vs Manual Focus
Autofocus is training wheels, and they are good training wheels. Learn to pull focus on a locked-off shot, and use autofocus when you’re running and gunning. The mistake is using autofocus for everything and never learning to pull.
What Gear Do You Need Beyond the Camera?
Audio, storage, batteries, and a tripod, in that order, before a second lens. The body is the smaller part of the bill.
Buy in This Order
- Body and one lens. Don’t buy a second lens yet.
- Shotgun microphone ($100–200). A Rode VideoMic GO II is the typical starting point.
- Fast memory cards ($80–120). V60 or V90 rated for 4K.
- Extra batteries ($50–80 each). Buy two or three.
- ND filter ($80–120). For motion blur at a normal shutter speed outdoors.
- Tripod with a fluid head ($150–300).
After that, a small monitor, an LED panel, a gimbal, a fast prime, and a case.
On a family portrait session my mirrorless camera’s battery died mid-shoot. A borrowed Canon Rebel SL3’s battery lasted the full afternoon, and an $80 EF 50mm f/1.8 beat my kit lens for the portraits. Batteries and cheap primes are not glamorous. They are the reason you finish the shoot.
What a Realistic R10 Starter Kit Costs
| Item | Approx. cost |
|---|---|
| Canon EOS R10 body | $980 |
| Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 | $199 |
| Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8 (RF) | $549 |
| Shotgun mic (Rode VideoMic GO II) | $99 |
| V60 SD card | $80 |
| Three extra batteries | $150 |
| ND filter | $100 |
| Tripod | $200 |
| Total | $2,357 |
Budget Reality: On that kit the body is $980 of $2,357, about 42%. The rest is the part beginners skip, and it’s the part that decides whether the footage is usable. Prices are ballparks, so check them before you buy.
Looking for a smaller kit? The one-bag camera kit guide covers a compact setup. Once the camera is in your hands, shoot and edit B-roll that actually cuts together.
What Mistakes Will Cost You Money?
Buying too much camera, ignoring audio, underestimating storage, learning a camera on a paid job, and chasing a look. I have paid for every one of them.
1. Buying too much camera. My first pro camera line was the Sony a7R II — 42.4MP, launched June 2015 at $3,198 body-only. My setup ran about $4,000 all-in, including the body, my first native FE lens, extra NP-FW50 batteries, and high-speed SD cards. I didn’t know enough to use half its features.
I also bought a jib arm early on, used it once, moved it through three apartments, and sold it for a third of what I paid. Start small. Upgrade when you hit a limit, not before.
2. Ignoring audio. Great image with bad sound is unwatchable. Buy the shotgun mic before the second lens.
3. Forgetting storage. Use the bitrate rule above. A wedding fills several cards, so budget $200 or more.
4. Not testing before the shoot. Never use a camera for the first time on a paid job. I once fumbled through a night scene because I didn’t know where the ISO button was.
5. Chasing the look. Beginners obsess over background blur. Story, light and performance carry the film.
Common Beginner Mistake: Trusting a small monitor to judge focus. On Tommy Lindholm, a 5-inch monitor showed day-two close-ups on a BMPCC 6K as razor sharp. In Resolve at home, the camera had locked focus on the actor’s eyebrow hairs, not the iris, so the most important scene of the shoot was soft on every take. We reshot the next morning at f/2.8 on a 7-inch SmallHD where the pupil was actually visible.
Which Camera Ecosystem Should You Commit To?
Pick the system your lenses and accessories will live in, because switching later costs more than any body. I shoot Sony, which is why I recommend the R10 here as a first camera, not as the system I live in.
Lenses don’t transfer between mounts. Accessories are brand-specific. If I switched out of Sony today, replacing the G Master primes, the zoom glass, the XLR adapters and the custom rigging would land somewhere between $8,000 and $12,000. That’s the real cost of the decision, not the body price.
My read, not a lab result:
Canon: Dependable autofocus and a large lens selection.
Sony: Strong video specs, compact bodies, and E-mount lenses from third parties like Sigma and Tamron. The ZV-E10 II uses the same mount as Sony’s full-frame bodies.
Nikon: Good skin tones, underrated lenses.
Fujifilm: Design and film simulations, fun to shoot.
Panasonic: Video-first features and smaller Micro Four Thirds lenses.
Not sure you need mirrorless at all? See the mirrorless vs DSLR guide in the link suggestions below.
What’s the Best First Camera for a Beginner?
For a beginner, the Canon EOS R10 with the RF 50mm f/1.8 and the Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8, about $1,728 for body and both lenses. If you’re already shooting Sony, the ZV-E10 II is the better buy.The R10 covers most beginner filmmaking, it has room to grow, and it doesn’t punish mistakes. The ZV-E10 II gives you native access to E-mount glass and everything you already own.
If you were asking what I’d actually buy myself — I shoot Sony. The ZV-E10 II is the pick, because it slots into my existing lenses and workflow. The R10 is the pick I’d hand to a beginner with no system yet.
Key Takeaways
The Canon EOS R10 is the safest first mirrorless camera for a beginner filmmaker, but “no recording limit” means roughly two hours per clip and a heat caveat.
The Sony ZV-E10 II is the better value when video is your main output, and its 4K/120p is a free, cropped upgrade license, not firmware.
The GH6 was replaced by the GH7 in 2024, so price the GH7 first for narrative work.
Budget for audio, cards, batteries and a tripod, because the body is only about 42% of a realistic starter kit.
Run the 30-minute record-limit test and the sample-clip editing test before your return window closes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a full-frame camera to start filmmaking?
No. APS-C and Micro Four Thirds cameras are better starting points because the bodies and lenses cost less and the files are easier to edit. Resolution doesn’t fix composition — it just shows you your mistakes more clearly.
How much should a beginner filmmaker spend on a camera?
Plan on about $2,500 for a complete starter kit, not just the body. The R10 example above lands at $2,357 once you add audio, cards, batteries, an ND filter and a tripod.
Can I use a mirrorless camera for professional work?
Yes, and I have, on commercials, a wedding film and an indie feature. The limit is usually audio, lighting and the person holding the camera, not the body.
What lens should I buy first?
A fast prime. The Canon RF 50mm f/1.8 ($199) is the cheap starting point for the R10, and a 35mm f/1.8 or a 23mm f/1.4 fills the same role on Sony or Fujifilm. A fast prime teaches framing and depth of field better than a kit zoom.
Is the Panasonic GH6 still worth buying now that the GH7 is out?
Only at a real discount, and only if you’re comfortable with contrast-detect autofocus. The GH7 adds phase-detect autofocus and internal ProRes RAW HQ for about $2,200, so price it before you buy an old GH6.
Where Do You Go From Here?
The best mirrorless camera for beginner filmmakers in 2026 is the Canon EOS R10, with the Sony ZV-E10 II as the better value if video is your main output. Neither is perfect, and both come with limits the spec sheet won’t mention.
The production reality is that your first camera has to be reliable enough that you stop thinking about it. Recording limits, heat, audio inputs and file size are what end shoots, not megapixels.
If you’re just starting, buy the R10 or the ZV-E10 II, run the 30-minute test, and shoot ten short projects before you upgrade. If you’ve already bought too much camera, shoot it harder before you sell it, and learn what it can’t do before you buy the next one. The camera that improves your films is the one you’ve stopped noticing.
For more on the craft side, see Filmmaking Techniques That Actually Work.
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About the Author
Trent Peek is a filmmaker, writer, and producer based in Victoria, BC, and the founder of PeekAtThis.com. His production credits include set decoration on Netflix’s Maid, and writing/directing Going Home (2024 Soho International Film Festival) and Noelle’s Package (48-hour festival winner, shot on smartphone). He’s also a former President of Cinevic, Victoria’s Society of Independent Filmmakers, and works as a doorman at a four-star hotel — a job that’s taught him as much about reading people under pressure as any film set has.
When he’s not writing articles, testing gear, or working on film projects, Trent enjoys traveling, reading, exploring new technology, and developing future film ideas — many of which may never leave the notebook stage.
P.S. Writing in the third person still feels weird.
Trent recently appeared on the Pushin Podcast — listen to the full episode — where he discussed independent filmmaking, directing actors, production challenges, and lessons learned from working in film.
